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Radon Detection and Reduction questions, answered by experts

Options include sub-slab depressurization, crawlspace ventilation, and sealing cracks. Choose based on home construction and radon levels.

Your radon fan needs to operate 24/7 to be effective. The only time the fan isn't operating is during its replacement. Radon levels in the home can increase within hours if the fan stops working or something obstructs the stack vent. Fortunately, radon systems require no downtime maintenance between fan changes.

The natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock, and water can cause radon to appear in a home. The gas seeps into homes through cracks in foundations, walls, or floors, as well as through gaps around pipes or construction joints. Radon levels are influenced by soil composition, building materials, and ventilation. Poorly sealed or airtight homes can trap radon, allowing it to accumulate.

Keeping radon from getting into your home is much better than having to get rid of it once it's already indoors. While there may not be a way to fully prevent radon from getting into your home, there are things you can do to reduce the gas's ability to enter. 

Sealing foundation cracks and openings can help keep the gas from seeping inside. Improving air flow, such as by opening windows, can also be helpful. If you're building your home from scratch, talk to your contractor about using radon-resistant construction to keep the gas out.

The average radon mitigation system uses about 876 kWh of electricity per year, although the exact amount of electricity used will vary depending on the size of the radon fan. Once the system is installed, the annual increase to your energy bill could range from $30 to $300 per year, again depending on the size of the fan.

The Winamac, IN homeowners’ guide to radon detection and reduction services

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