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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Most experts recommend removing a tree that has sustained more than 25% loss in the limbs, trunk, or circumference of the bark. Doing an initial trimming of damaged and dangling branches, but then waiting a few days of monitoring to decide how much more you might need to cut can help you better assess the total damage to the tree. However, consulting a tree maintenance pro to make this determination the best course of action before removing a tree.

Many species, especially when well-established, are not fans of transplantation. You’ll need to decide if you want to risk splashing the cash, understanding that transplantation isn’t always successful. Again, this is where hiring a pro is helpful, as they can give you all the essential info you need to ensure your tree stands a fighting chance.

Whether tree roots will continue to grow after a tree has been cut down depends on the species. Some tree roots will eventually die because they can no longer get nutrients through photosynthesis. However, other species that reproduce through root sprouts can continue to grow and produce new sprouts for seven years or more. For example, the roots of elms, ficus, and willows tend to regrow aggressively, while the roots of pines, oaks, and maples will typically die. To determine if a root system is still active, look for new sprouts on the old trunk, stump, or any exposed roots.