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A common cause of separation between a wall and the ceiling is truss lift—this can happen to the ceiling of rooms directly under the attic when the seasons change and wood building materials dry out, shrink, and shift. Roof trusses often dry out at different speeds, and if the bottom pieces dry out faster than the top pieces, they can shrink and pull the attached drywall away from ceilings and walls, causing cracks. Fortunately, truss lift is only a cosmetic problem, not a structural problem, and you can fix it by separating the ceiling drywall from the roof trusses, and patching the cracks.

The two most common drywall thicknesses for ceilings are 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch. For most standard residential applications, 1/2-inch drywall is sufficient and widely used. It provides adequate support and is lighter and easier to handle during installation compared to thicker sheets. However, 5/8-inch drywall is often used for specific cases where additional benefits are needed. It is heavier but provides superior sound dampening and fire resistance. You should consider using 5/8-inch drywall for ceilings in commercial buildings, between a garage and a living space, or above a finished basement to meet building codes or for enhanced soundproofing.

Choose a drill bit that is the size of the screws of the anchors you will use. You aren’t drilling through metal or concrete—hopefully—so any standard twist, wooden or all-purpose drill bit will work fine. It’s also important to have a screwdriver capable of drilling through the drywall and into the stud. The good news is most available drills, even the older ones, can do this with no issue.

Whether it’s better to screw or glue drywall depends on your specific budget and project timeline. Professional drywall installers are more likely to use screws and fasteners than adhesives, but it takes longer. But if you are DIYing your drywall installation, glue is a perfectly fine choice if you’re willing to pay extra for adhesive.