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The most common alternative is burning the stump first, then dealing with the cinders and ashes. As you can imagine, this option creates fire hazards, especially since roots can burn underground, hidden, for long afterward. That’s why many states and cities have outlawed the use of stump burning entirely. We do not recommend this option as a viable alternative unless you get a permit from the local fire department and practice all safe burning procedures.

Others prefer a more long-term DIY approach of degrading the stump with home mixtures like Epsom salt and vinegar injected directly into it. This may help the stump decay faster, allowing homeowners to dig it out themselves, but it’s still a lengthy process. It usually takes months for a stump to start falling apart with such treatments, and in the meantime, it can be vulnerable to rot, insects, and other problems.

While you can leave roots in the ground, if you don’t want the shrub to regrow again over time, it’s best not to leave any roots behind. Ensure you remove as much of the shrub as possible, including the root ball and any main roots you can see, to prevent new growth. Some gardeners opt for using a chemical treatment to prevent the stump from growing back, but this can kill beneficial microorganisms living in your soil.

The optimal time to tackle thorn bush removal is during late fall or winter when the bushes are dormant. The plants are less active during this time of year, making it easier to prune and remove. Additionally, you can more easily see what you’re cutting since there are no leaves.

It’s possible to over-mulch leaves. If the leaf mulch is thick enough that it’s blocking and smothering the grass, that’s a problem. Ideally, you should still be able to see the grass when you’re done mulching to ensure its ability to continue growing. The solution is to make another pass at the top layer of leaf mulch to collect some of the top layer.