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In addition to adding insulation to your attic, you may want to add a radiant barrier. A radiant barrier works by using reflective material, such as foil, on the attic floor. As heat penetrates the roof and enters the attic, the radiant barrier reflects the heat upward and back through the roof. If you receive a lot of direct sunlight on the roof, using both a radiant barrier and insulation in your attic can provide significant benefits.

Three signs that you need crawl space insulation are drafts, high energy bills, and mold. Drafts can start in crawl spaces and cause hot or cold air to spread to the rest of your home through holes in the floors and walls. And even if your entire home is well-insulated, you can still feel an unchecked draft from your crawl space and in your utility bill. Uninsulated crawl spaces can let in air and moisture, and because they’re built directly on the ground and difficult to dry out, they are hotspots for mold and mildew.

The most affordable way to insulate behind unfinished walls is to install fiberglass batts or rolls. These total around $0.75 per linear foot, with the width matching the gaps between standard studs perfectly. However, it’s important to consider the R-value of your insulation and the climate in your area, as fiberglass insulation isn’t the best in terms of preventing heat transfer. Plus, the most affordable option may cost more on electricity bills over time. The most affordable way to insulate behind finished walls is to leave them up and use blown-in insulation to avoid drywall replacement.

A plastic vapor barrier should completely cover your basement to prevent water from penetrating through the walls. This typically goes before installing insulation to prevent moisture from building up and becoming trapped on the inside of your insulation, where it can collect and lead to mold damage. Installing insulation after the vapor barrier allows for any moisture to exit the walls for better ventilation.