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The primary downside of radiant barriers is their limited effectiveness in cold climates. They are designed to reflect radiant heat, making them less beneficial in cooler conditions where heat retention is more important. 

Radiant barriers require proper installation to maximize effectiveness. Incorrect placement can lead to minimal benefits. They also do not provide insulation, meaning they should be used in conjunction with traditional insulation for optimal energy efficiency. 

It is possible to install a radiant barrier yourself. However, knowing how to install a radiant barrier and actually doing it are two totally different things. For example, it’s important that they be installed in a straight line but at an angle that creates a gap between the roof panels and the foil or spray. If this gap is too large or small, it won’t function as it should, and that may be hard to avoid if you’re only a novice. When in doubt, leave this job to a pro.

On average, insulating an attic costs about $2,500, with a typical range of $1,500 to $3,500. The final price often depends on the attic's size, with costs generally falling between $1 to $3 per square foot. For example, insulating a 1,800-square-foot attic would likely cost between $1,800 and $5,400.

If the project involves removing old insulation, this can add an average of $900 to the total cost, bringing a full removal and reinsulation project to around $3,000.

Several factors influence the overall cost:

• Insulation Type: Prices per square foot vary significantly by material.

• Reflective: $0.50–$1.50

• Blown-in: $1–$4

• Batt: $2–$4

• Loose-fill: $2–$5

• Spray foam: $2–$5

• Structural insulated panels (SIPs): $4–$7

• Project Complexity: Factors like sealing air leaks, poor attic accessibility, and required inspections can add to the cost.

• Removal Issues: The discovery of mold, asbestos, or pests during the removal of old insulation can substantially increase the price.

If you’re using faced insulation with paper, face the paper toward the inside of the room during the installation process. 

A good way to remember this is that the paper should face the “warm side” as it’s the vapor barrier, meaning it should face toward where the heat will be coming from.