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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

A post-drywall inspection could uncover many problems that weren’t present during the pre-drywall inspection, including insufficient insulation, missing weather stripping, improperly installed plumbing and lighting fixtures, flooring damage, drywall damage, plumbing leaks, aesthetic issues, and more. Structural problems, which are often expensive to fix and are common reasons to walk away after a home inspection, are easier to see before the drywall goes up, but a post-drywall inspection may highlight minor issues with house settling and foundation problems.

Yes, taping inside corners is a critical step in the drywall installation process.  Properly taping inside corners is essential for achieving a professional look, and an installation that resists cracking and maintains its integrity over time. Taping the corners involves the application of a joint compound along the seam where two drywall pieces meet. This process provides reinforcement, conceals the seam, and prevents future gaps or cracks from developing.

If your premixed drywall mud is dried out or has begun to set in the bucket, you may be able to revive it by adding warm water and stirring. However, the first and most important step is to scrape off any hard, dried bits of drywall that may have accumulated toward the top of the container and throw them away because they will not easily reconstitute back into the drywall mud mix.