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Wet-sanding and dry-sanding each have pros and cons. Dry-sanding is less messy, so it’s a good option if you’re trying to minimize dust (for example, if you’re sanding an occupied home or working with particularly dry or dusty drywall mud). However, dry-sanding is quicker because you don’t have to keep rinsing a sponge or wait for it to dry before painting.

You can put drywall mud over paint to even out the surface or entirely resurface it. Sand the surface with 280-grit sandpaper, vacuum the debris and dust with a shop vac, and clean it with a slightly damp cloth. Allow the surface to dry. Apply drywall primer, especially if you’re skim-coating an entire wall. Apply the right type of drywall mud over the surface and smooth it with a trowel. Allow the layer to cure fully, then sand it before applying another layer or painting it.

Yes, applying a texture can hide minor imperfections and irregularities in drywall, but it will not cover significant damage like nail marks or screw holes. The best texture depends on the size of the flaws. For minor imperfections, popular choices like orange peel, sand, or popcorn texture are effective. For larger imperfections, you may need a more prominent style, such as a knockdown or trowel finish, to conceal them effectively.

You do not need to drywall over most types of garage insulation. However, doing so can increase noise reduction, make the space more attractive, and keep children and pets from touching harmful fiberglass insulation. If you’re using cellulose or some other type of blown-in insulation (fiberglass and mineral wool are common), you will need drywall to contain the insulation material.