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Light-bark trees are most notorious for producing lots of sap when wounded. These varieties include maples, birches, poplars, dogwoods, magnolias, and elms, and they will bleed more when the trees are dormant. That’s why it’s a good idea to prune them in the summer months rather than waiting until winter.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

It can take anywhere from one month to a couple of years for tree roots to grow back in sewer lines. Tree roots can cause extreme havoc on your sewer lines, potentially cracking them and causing untreated wastewater to make its way into the groundwater. Have a landscaping pro remove trees and roots before installing your system, or call a pro to do it retroactively as soon as you can.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.