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There are two things you can do to make a fence replacement easier—but keep in mind that easier doesn’t mean better. First, you can use a jack or some other type of machinery to pull the post out of the ground. If that’s not available, a digging bar can help.

Second, you can backfill the hole with gravel rather than creating a concrete footing. Keep in mind, gravel is less secure. You should only use it if you’re installing a lightweight fence or have heavier, clay soil.

You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.

If you come face-to-face with a wolf in your yard, chances are it will be afraid of you as a human. Make eye contact and get big—waving your arms to increase your size. Use noisemakers or air horns if you have them, or throw a few rocks around to discourage them from approaching you. If all else fails and the wolf does not retreat, back away slowly while maintaining eye contact and find safe ground, whether indoors or up a tree. 

The thickness of a glass fence varies widely based on its application and whether or not there are any safety requirements, but most fences are between 8 millimeters and 12 millimeters thick. 12-millimeter-thick glass is extremely strong and overkill in most cases, which is why you typically only see it around pools and in skyscrapers.