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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Ductwork should be wrapped in insulation in certain locations. This includes unconditioned interior parts of the home, such as attics, crawl spaces, basement ceilings, and between floors. Duct joints should also be insulated since they're more likely to leak air than other parts of your system. Building codes in some areas also require ductwork to be insulated.

You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

In some areas, insulation companies require a special license, while some states only require them to hold general contractor licenses. Some municipalities may not mandate any license, although you should always ensure a contractor is fully insured. You can use Angi’s license lookup tool to confirm whether or not an insulation contractor you’re considering holds the necessary license for your area. You can also contact the company for information regarding licenses, certifications, and insurance.