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If your home’s foundation shifts slightly over time, any seams in the drywall represent the weakest point in the wall, leading to cracks. If your home has significant changes in temperature and humidity, this can cause the drywall to swell and contract slightly, causing a crack at the weak point of the seam. If your drywall installer did a poor job securing the panels to the wall studs, this could cause a weak layout and cracks in the seams.

If your home was built before the 1940s and was not remodeled in the past 50 or so years, you probably have plaster walls. Aside from assuming, there are some practical ways to tell if you have plaster walls, including the following: If you knock on the wall and it feels solid, not hollow, if you can’t insert a thumbtack easily, if there are cracks that look like spiderwebs, or if your home has curved, arched, or swirled walls, doorways, or window openings.

If you have an unfinished basement or attic, you could examine the backs of any finished walls to check, too.

There is no way to cut drywall without making dust, but you can reduce the amount of dust and especially the dangerous airborne particles by using manual cutting tools. Using a utility knife to score and snap your drywall will minimize dust production, and a jab saw for cutting cutouts for boxes and fixtures will generate almost no airborne dust. Even if you use these methods, you should still wear a respirator and safety goggles to avoid damage to your lungs and eyes.

If you plan on heating your garage, you must install a vapor barrier when drywalling the garage. A vapor barrier protects your garage from frost and mold that can occur through condensation. If your garage is unheated, you don't need to install a vapor barrier. The only exception is if you regularly crank the heat in your car before getting in it. In this case, you may still want to install a vapor barrier, as your car can heat your garage.