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A moisture or vapor barrier helps separate the warm air inside your home from the cold air outside of it. Without it, your walls could collect condensation, mold, or other damage. Check your local building codes to see if including an interior vapor barrier is necessary for your building project or renovation, especially for rooms that are likely to be humid, like bathrooms.

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

One of the clearest signs that your insulation isn’t working as well as it should be is a noticeable difference in temperature throughout your home. One room might feel icy while another is hot as Arizona—this indicates that some parts of your home are either retaining or losing heat more than others. Additionally, a sudden increase in your energy bills, evidence of pests or rodents, or evident water damage are other signals that warrant a thorough inspection of your insulation and potential replacement.

Ideally, you can add new insulation to your existing insulation. However, some circumstances require you to remove old insulation before adding any new insulation: 

• If the insulation is over 15 years old

• If the insulation is wet or moldy

• If it is vermiculite insulation

• If you see signs of pest infestation

Removing old insulation is best left to a pro who can safely dispose of potential moldy or asbestos-ridden insulation.