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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Staining pressure-treated wood is a recommended practice. While inherently resilient, it's not impervious to moisture and UV exposure. Staining treated wood is feasible and recommended for enhanced protection and longevity. Applying stain and sealant safeguards against degradation, prolonging its life span. These measures shield the wood from environmental threats while augmenting its aesthetic appeal, ensuring your investment endures the test of time.

Wood stain is not flammable after it dries. The solvent in wood stain is what causes the liquid form to be highly flammable, but the stain drying process involves the solvents dissolving, which leaves behind a non-flammable product on your wood project. Wood stain is, however, flammable before you apply it, so you should always store partially full cans and used wood stain rags away from sources of heat and open flames.

The best finish for wrought iron railings is either a semi-gloss or a gloss sheen, as each offers good durability against rain, wind, heat, cold, and snow. 

When applying multiple coats, wait four to six hours for each coat to dry. Not waiting long enough can result in streaks, peeling, and uneven color. Plus, it will be more difficult to discern where the second coat has already been applied.

The Suffield, CT homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

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