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If you’re using faced insulation with paper, face the paper toward the inside of the room during the installation process. 

A good way to remember this is that the paper should face the “warm side” as it’s the vapor barrier, meaning it should face toward where the heat will be coming from.

You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

The most affordable way to insulate a garage involves choosing cost-effective materials like fiberglass, which comes in batts or rolls and is relatively easy to install. You can often install this type of insulation without needing to add drywall, which helps reduce costs. While a DIY approach might seem cheapest, hiring a professional installer can be highly cost-effective. Experts can accurately determine your garage's specific insulation needs and ensure the best results for your investment, often using batt insulation for the bulk of the project.

Yes. Bathroom insulation requires a vapor barrier. As a matter of fact, bathrooms and kitchens are the two areas of the home that should always get a vapor barrier because of the excess moisture. If you don’t have a vapor barrier in place in these rooms, the moisture will build up and eventually lead to mold and bacteria, not to mention the destruction of the insulation.