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Fence Painting FAQs, answered by experts

The general consensus is that two coats of stain are required and since the cedar is siding, a third coat of sealant is always a good idea. This helps protect the wood and stain, so you won’t need to resand and restain for at least a decade. Each stain after the first will darken the wood, so be aware of that when choosing a colored stain.

Maintain your wattle fence by inspecting it at least twice per year for loose weaving and degrading branches. Replace any seriously degraded sections, ensure water drains properly around the posts, and trim any sprouting branches if you used green wood. If you notice the weave loosening, you can often tighten it by gently pushing down on the top branches. You can also apply a natural wood preservative every two to three years to extend the fence's lifespan.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Exterior paints contain more volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, making them dangerous when used indoors. Without the free ventilation of the great outdoors, it can take longer for the fumes to dissipate than interior paint. While you may notice the smell lessening more quickly, you should be wary of paint fumes inside for 48 to 72 hours after it dries.

For the best results, you should apply two coats of paint to your wrought iron fence. Let your first coat dry for about an hour then promptly apply your second coat.

The Lucerne, CA homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.