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Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

You’ll first need to install a base underneath your pavers for extra stability and drainage. Otherwise, the pavers can sink into the ground, and you’ll have to reinstall them. Use a base gravel layer of 4 to 6 inches for walkways and 10 to 12 inches for driveways. Compact your gravel layer every 2 to 4 inches so it’s nice and solid. After you install your gravel base, apply a 1-inch layer of sand on top.

The stones do not work well on uneven ground. If the stones are not buried into the ground and made level upon installation, they almost certainly will shift or crack on uneven ground. Additionally, rainwater or water from sprinklers can run under the edge of an uneven paver, causing erosion. In a freeze and thaw cycle, trapped water under the paver can cause the problem to worsen by shifting the stepping stones around. Use a bubble level to make sure the ground under each paver is as even as possible, even if the nearby ground is uneven.

The most obvious disadvantage of permeable paving is that the cost is typically higher compared to non-permeable concrete, pavers, or asphalt methods. Also, the porous material can get clogged with dirt and debris, requiring cleaning and power washing more frequently than standard paving materials and methods. Although permeable paving is not ideal for highways, airports, and other surfaces supporting heavy traffic and machinery, it is suitable for regular residential driveways.