How to Install Artificial Grass in 10 Steps

Before learning how to install artificial turf, you'll need to remove the top 4 inches of grass and soil to keep it from coming back. Don't underestimate how time- and labor-intensive this part of the process can be. You will likely need to rent a sod cutter and mini excavator to transport the sod. Be sure to rent a dumpster near you and check local laws about how to properly dispose of organic material.

There are several steps you can take to keep weeds from inviting themselves through your artificial turf. In some cases, laying landscape fabric on the newly prepared soil—either before or after laying the subbase—will keep both weeds and large burrowing critters from coming through your turf. You can also spray a homemade weed killer and allow it to sit for several days to ensure the weed roots are gone for good. 

Rolls of artificial turf need some time to unwind and open up before you secure them to the ground. As you're planning to lay the subbase and pull up final signs of weeds, roll out the artificial turf in the sun for at least 30 to 60 minutes.

The subbase material under your turf both stabilizes the rolls of grass and assists with drainage. Check with your artificial manufacturer for the proper type of subbase to use. Common options include road base, crushed miscellaneous base (CMB), or decomposed granite or limestone. 

Lay between 2 and 4 inches of subbase with your mini excavator or with a larger shovel. Tamp down the base so it is even and slightly sloped away from your home's foundation

Transfer each roll of artificial grass over your lawn and begin to fit it into place. Push the edges of the grass rolls up against the perimeter and trim the turf to size. You can do this by flipping the edge of the turf over and cutting it from the back with a box cutter or carpet knife. Leave at least one-quarter of an inch to be safe and to make final adjustments at the end.

If you are adding more than one roll, take a look at the next step. Otherwise, skip to step seven.

Seam tape and turf adhesive help you avoid the dreaded space between rolls that makes it look less than natural. Also, be sure to match the direction of the grass on both rolls. 

The edge of your turf should butt up against one another but not overlap. To pull this off, lay seam tape between the two rolls so the center of the strip sits just below the seam opening. Many rolls will include a line down the center for reference. 

Spread the adhesive in an S shape down the tape, and then layer each side of the tuf over top to align with the center. Keep in mind that some turf adhesives require 24 hours before you can walk on the grass to keep it from shifting.

Move along the edge of your turf grass and either place a 7-inch galvanized turf stake or a turf staple every 6 inches. Use a rubber mallet to delicately hammer the nails or staples into the ground. While you never want the top to stick up from the ground, do not hammer it too deep into the ground. Otherwise, you could end up with a visible divot and pools of water. 

At this point—and only if your adhesive is ready for foot traffic—use a hard-bristle brush to comb through the grass and encourage it to fully open up and accept the infill. 

Infill is the finishing touch to artificial turf that keeps it looking like natural grass while weighing it down evenly at the same time. Yet again, check with your artificial turf manufacturer to ensure you choose the right weight, color, and material for your infill. In most cases, you can use a drop spreader to evenly layer your turf with infill.

Come back with that push broom to distribute the infill further and ensure it has properly sunk into the grass blades. Go over the turf once a week with the brook to remove debris and keep that infill balanced.