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There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

About 6 inches between the edges of each stone in the sequence is common. Rather than sticking to 6 inches, some people measure the length of the entire path and adjust the space between stepping stones a couple of inches wider or narrower than 6 inches to make sure the entire path fits the length perfectly without having to cut a paver at either end. Other people prefer a design with a 24-inch distance from the center of one stone to the center of the next stone, which matches the stride of an average-sized person.

The driveway apron is a technical term referring to where a private driveway meets the public street. If there is a sidewalk in front of the house, the driveway apron is typically on the opposite side of the public sidewalk from the driveway itself.