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You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

Vapor barriers in attics are a bit outdated and most areas no longer recommend them for attic spaces. For vented attics, the best method is usually to install drywall and cover it with latex paint before attaching insulation fiberglass, cellulose, or foam insulation. When renovating an attic to use as a living space, a contractor can guide you on the best way to cover insulation.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

The primary downside of radiant barriers is their limited effectiveness in cold climates. They are designed to reflect radiant heat, making them less beneficial in cooler conditions where heat retention is more important. 

Radiant barriers require proper installation to maximize effectiveness. Incorrect placement can lead to minimal benefits. They also do not provide insulation, meaning they should be used in conjunction with traditional insulation for optimal energy efficiency.