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Fence Painting FAQs, answered by experts

Staining a wood fence isn’t guaranteed to prevent warping, but it can help. Plus, it’s a beginner-friendly DIY project that you can finish in a few days. If you want to try it, you’ll start by stripping it of any old stain or paint, then sanding it. After that, you’ll clean it and spot-treat any mold or mildew. When it’s dry, you can apply the stain.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Staining a fence is less expensive than painting a fence due to the cost of materials and the longevity of the finish. Stain not only lasts longer than paint without chipping or peeling, but you also won’t have to put in the extra time and cost to prime the surface first. 

If you don’t treat a cedar fence, it will turn from reddish brown to gray over time. You can keep the cedar from graying and retain its attractive, deep red color by sealing your cedar fence with a stain that keeps the wood’s oils in and serves as a barrier against the sun’s UV rays.

The Dummerston, VT homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.