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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

You can apply stain over peeling stain, but it’s not a good idea. Your old stain will get in the way of your new stain bonding to the wood, so you’re likely going to see the same issue again shortly after application. Your best option is to sand off the old stain and clean the surface thoroughly before applying new stain.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Stains penetrate wood best when it's cool and dry, so you want to avoid moisture. If the wood is wet upon application, or if it rains before the stain dries, the water will soak into the wood and displace the staining solution. This leads to a flaky and blotchy look, which is the opposite of a sumptuous even coat. Once the stain has fully cured, after about 3 days, rain shouldn’t cause you any problems.

If it rains after you paint your fence, you may need to apply another coat of paint after the fence thoroughly dries. This will ensure a good seal if the rain weakened any areas of the paint. However, if your paint had enough time to dry thoroughly before it rained, you should have no problem.

Your tool of choice ultimately comes down to personal preference. Many DIYers prefer applying stain with a lint-free rag, but others stick with a paint brush or a roller. Wipe the stain and work it into the wood, working with and against the grain. If you’re applying multiple coats, allow the stain to dry for around four hours between coats.

The Cornwall, VT homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.