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Very carefully. You should be cautious when using any of the above methods, as any one of them could lead to you accidentally killing desired grasses and plants. However, there are selective herbicides that can target certain plants over others. Look for a product that only affects the type of weeds you want to eliminate and spares the plants you want to keep.

Too much clover in your lawn can indicate several issues with your soil. Clover can thrive in soils with abnormally high pH, low-cut grass, and low nitrogen. Amending these issues can push clover out for good.

Hardy perennial clover loves the low nitrogen and compact conditions that often come with poor, infertile soils. But other factors also contribute to a clover explosion, including drought conditions, cool temperatures, under fertilization, and over-irrigation. You’ll need to evaluate all these elements when planning to kill off the clover.

Sealing pavers helps cut down on weed growth, but it won’t wipe it out entirely. What it does really well is harden the joint sand—especially if you’re using a sealant with polymer additives—so weeds have a much harder time breaking through. It also blocks airborne seeds from settling in the cracks and keeps debris from building up. This results in fewer weeds, easier maintenance, and a cleaner-looking surface. Just remember, sealing is a strong defense—not a one-and-done solution. Stay on top of sweeping, spot-treating, and resealing every few years to keep your weeds in check.

You should add 1 to 4 inches of mulch, depending on your garden type and needs. Keep in mind that no amount of mulch can completely prevent weeds, but a heavier coverage (closer to 4 inches) can suppress weeds enough that you are only seeing them sprout every few weeks. Finer mulch prevents weeds more effectively than large mulch, so if you’re using mulched leaves or shredded bark, 1 to 2 inches will likely suffice, while 3 to 4 inches is best for larger mulch, like bark chips or straw.