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You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.

Vinyl and chicken wire are two of the best and most affordable materials for a DIY garden fence. Vinyl is a great option because it is cost-effective, easy to work with, and effective at keeping pests out. A vinyl fence can cost as little as $15 per linear foot, especially if you install it yourself. Chicken wire is even more budget-friendly, costing as little as $2 per linear foot. While chicken wire is more affordable, vinyl is a better choice if privacy is a concern. You can also add chicken wire on top of a vinyl fence for extra security.

The maximum recommended slope on which you can build a racked or stepped fence is 45 degrees. After that, construction becomes quite tricky and may require the use of retaining walls or terraces to make the fenced area flatter.

While many fence companies and fence material retailers refer to their metal fencing as wrought iron fencing, most of it is actually ornamental wrought iron fence. This means that the fence is made to look like traditional wrought iron but is actually made out of either steel or aluminum. Old wrought iron fences typically found at estate sales or on older properties are much heavier and much more prone to rust than the ornamental wrought iron that newer homes and fences use.