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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Generally, these steps are included in exterior house painting:

  • Prepping and protecting the areas not being painted

  • Scraping away loose paint

  • Cleaning off dirt, grease, and debris

  • Caulking gaps and openings

  • Priming with a quality paint primer

  • Painting the prepared areas, including trim and accents with chosen paint finish

  • Adding a second coat

  • Cleaning up the site and disposing of tape, plastic, and drop cloths

You should stain both sides of your fence to get the full benefits. Fences often fall along property lines, so you may want to save a buck by leaving your neighbor’s side in the dust. If you do that, all you get is a slightly better view. Moisture and UV rays can still sneak in through the side that’s unpainted or worn down and damage your fence. Rot and rust will spread, even if you can’t see it from your side of the lawn.

Choose based on climate, finish preference (glossy, matte), and durability. Tailored coatings also provide longevity.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

If you don’t treat a cedar fence, it will turn from reddish brown to gray over time. You can keep the cedar from graying and retain its attractive, deep red color by sealing your cedar fence with a stain that keeps the wood’s oils in and serves as a barrier against the sun’s UV rays.

The Moab, UT homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.