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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Staining pressure-treated wood is a recommended practice. While inherently resilient, it's not impervious to moisture and UV exposure. Staining treated wood is feasible and recommended for enhanced protection and longevity. Applying stain and sealant safeguards against degradation, prolonging its life span. These measures shield the wood from environmental threats while augmenting its aesthetic appeal, ensuring your investment endures the test of time.

For the best results, you should apply two coats of paint to your wrought iron fence. Let your first coat dry for about an hour then promptly apply your second coat.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

While the answer varies based on weather, 10 a.m. is a good time to start painting. The dew will have dried, meaning there’s no moisture on the house, and the temperature will likely be moderate and the sunlight less direct. Starting mid-morning should also give you enough daylight and pleasant weather to work on the job for several hours.

The Lapoint, UT homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.