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Generally, you do not need to drain your pool to convert it to a saltwater system. The main exception is if you have used an antibacterial agent containing polyhexamethylene biguanide to sanitize your pool, as these sanitation products do not mix well with saltwater systems. If this is the case, you will need to start fresh. You can either drain the pool or treat the existing water with a high dose of chlorine to remove the antibacterial agent. If you choose the chlorine treatment, wait several days to allow the chlorine to work before proceeding with the conversion. If you are unsure whether this applies to your pool, consult a pool technician.

Calcium lumps in a pool are calcium deposits that form when a pool's water parameters are not in the normal range. They can float around on the surface of the pool water, making it look and feel dirty. The most common causes of calcium lumps in pools are calcium hardness above 1,000 ppm, alkalinity over 120, and a pH over 7.8. Keeping your pool’s calcium levels, alkalinity, and pH levels within the normal, safe ranges is the best way to prevent calcium lumps and other problems, including damage to the pool surface.

Pool chemical levels should include a pH between 7.4 and 7.6, alkalinity between 80 to 120 ppm, and chlorine from 1 to 3 ppm. The size and type of your pool determine additional chemical levels, such as stabilizers and pool shock, but you can get to know these numbers using our pool maintenance 101 guide.

No, you should not use an extension cord with an aboveground pool pump. In addition to being dangerous as a tripping hazard, use of an extension cord could void your pool pump’s warranty. This is because using an extension cord not rated for use with the pool filter pump could damage this equipment.