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Instead of a set number of types, asphalt comes in variations designed for different needs. Some are categorized by temperature—hot mix, warm mix, and cold mix. Others are sorted by composition, like dense-graded, gap-graded (such as Stone Matrix Asphalt), porous, and mastic asphalt. There are also modified versions with added compounds like polymers, rubber, or emulsions. Instead of focusing on a number, it may be more useful to understand how contractors customize asphalt for durability, climate, and traffic conditions.

No. You cannot use asphalt products on concrete driveways. To seal a concrete driveway, use acrylic, epoxy, polyurethane, silane, siloxane, and silicate sealers or deep penetration sealers made specifically for concrete. Meanwhile, asphalt sealers contain refined coal tar (asphalt emulsion), water, sand, clay, polymers, and additives and are incompatible with concrete’s surface texture and higher density.

When asphalt cures, it typically changes from a very dark black hue to a lighter, more matte gray color. Cured asphalt also won’t be tacky or sticky to the touch or emit any odors from the asphalt mix. Additionally, the surface of fully cured asphalt won’t deform under any pressure.

Ideally, you should seal your driveway when there won’t be rain for several days, but at a minimum, there can’t be rain for at least 24 hours. If it rains shortly after you seal your driveway, the water can wash away the sealer and render your work useless. You’ll have to wait for your driveway to dry out and try applying again. Note that some sealers—like oil-based sealers or specialty fast-drying sealers—may cure faster. Ask your contractor for information on timing before the install, and if there’s rain in the forecast, postpone the job.