Get matched with top drywall pros in Cottontown, TN

In some minor cases, you can DIY drywall repair with minimal time and money spent. This method is best when you have a hole made by a singular problem, such as accidental furniture moving, and not a continuous problem, like a rodent infestation. 

Knowing what product to use is crucial. For example, small holes only need spackle, whereas large holes might need a new piece of drywall. You can flex your DIY abilities on this project, but if you’d like a second opinion or have a more significant problem, it’s best to call in a drywall repair pro.

All plaster walls will crack over time due to normal house settling and expansion and contraction from temperature and moisture changes. Small, thin hairline cracks are generally not serious and are mostly a cosmetic issue. However, larger or more significant cracks can indicate structural problems.

Here's how to tell the difference:

• Cosmetic Cracks: Cracks that are 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) or thinner are typically cosmetic.

• Structural Cracks: Cracks wider than 0.5 cm, excessive or deep cracks, multiple cracks in the same area, or cracks that span around corners can signify a structural or foundation issue. Cracks along the joints where walls meet the ceiling also warrant attention.

For cracks wider than 0.5 cm, structural repair is needed. If a crack is 2.5 cm (1 inch) or wider, or if you notice any signs of a structural problem, it is best to contact a plaster repair professional to assess the damage.

Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.

Wet-sanding and dry-sanding each have pros and cons. Dry-sanding is less messy, so it’s a good option if you’re trying to minimize dust (for example, if you’re sanding an occupied home or working with particularly dry or dusty drywall mud). However, dry-sanding is quicker because you don’t have to keep rinsing a sponge or wait for it to dry before painting.