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Mortar and thinset both serve the same purpose—tile adhesion—but have different compositions and use-cases. Thinset is heatproof and presents a wide range of possibilities due to the added polymers. Mortar is typically used for bonding stones and brick. Thinset is rarely used outside, while mortar is rarely used inside.

Most of the time, you don’t need to seal brickwork and can save that money for another area of home improvement. But if your brick is cracking or you live in an area with a lot of excess moisture (either in terms of rain or freezes), sealing can extend the lifetime of your home. But, make sure you use a breathable sealant, like siloxane, to allow the moisture to evaporate on its own.

Limewash can be removed from brick, but the method of removal will depend on how long the limewash has been on the brick. If the limewash has fully dried—which happens after about five days—you’ll need to use a diluted muriatic acid mixture to remove it. If there are multiple coats of limewash, you may need to apply the acid mixture several times to fully remove it from the brick.

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.