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A scattering of leaves won’t pose a problem through the winter, but a thicker layer of leaves may not decompose before the first frost and can instead weigh down your grass and harbor mold or fungi. A thick layer of leaves also cuts off light and air that grass needs to grow. That’s why we suggest removing thick leaf layers within several days if possible. If your lawn goes dormant over the winter and snow has already caught up with you, then remove the leaves in early spring before your grass-growing season starts so your lawn can thrive.

Grass is the most popular and safest option for planting over a septic drain field, but you can also plant small flowering plants and other lightweight plants that don’t have woody or deep roots. Avoid trees and bushes within 10 feet of the field, as the woody roots can crack the perforated pipes. You should also avoid planting vegetable or fruit gardens over your drain field, as a leak from the pipes could contaminate the soil and put anyone who eats the produce at risk.

The best time to plant is between spring and autumn. Springtime weather is typically mild and is when nurseries start to bloom. When the summer weather arrives and it’s hot out, it’s best to avoid planting bare-root plants, but you can still plant many in-container varieties. The first sign of fall is another great opportunity to plant biennials if you live in southern states, or a lovely vegetable garden up north.

Buying plants from a nursery is one thing, but ensuring that they are properly planted is another. While you might not need to hire a landscaper for every plant that you buy from a nursery, it’s a great idea to have their expertise and experience to plant larger items, like burlapped trees or specialty plants like rose bushes. Even better, before making a trip to a nursery to buy new plants, consult a local landscaper to test your soil for pH levels, soil texture, and phosphorus and potassium levels to help determine the best plants for your area.