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Energy Efficiency Auditing questions, answered by experts

The three levels of home energy audits include:

  • Level 1: Review of your energy bills and home for signs of energy inefficiency and areas for improvement. The average cost range is $0.08 to $0.12 per square foot.

  • Level 2: A level 2 ASHRAE energy audit costs $0.12 and $0.35 per square foot. In-depth analysis of your energy usage and provides a report of cost-saving changes.

  • Level 3: Comprehensive analysis and detailed recommendations for ways to improve your home’s energy efficiency. A level 3 audit costs about $0.36 to $0.50 per square foot.

After you receive your audit and report, review the findings and determine which of the prescribed changes you want to make to improve your home’s energy efficiency. Start by contacting the type of professionals recommended by the auditor who can help you remedy the issues discovered during the audit. Prioritize the projects by urgency, importance, and budget. Then, gather estimates from several professionals, remembering to verify any necessary licensing and experience information.

The difference between an energy auditor and a home inspector is primarily in the purpose of the inspection. The energy auditor conducts tests in your home to determine the energy efficiency levels in areas like windows, insulation, and doorways. The auditor then makes recommendations for ways to improve a home’s energy efficiency. 

A home inspector examines various structures of your home to determine that everything is up to code and gauge the condition of features like the roof, foundation, HVAC, and electrical. The home inspector reports on the overall home and makes repair recommendations.

Homeowners may qualify for an HVAC tax credit if they install an ENERGY STAR®-certified HVAC system that exceeds the energy efficiency minimum standards:

  • Split-System AC: 16 SEER2

  • Packaged AC: 15.2 SEER2 and 11.5 EER2

  • Ducted Split Heat Pump: 15.2 SEER2, 7.8 HSPF2, and 11.7 EER2 

  • Packaged Heat Pump: 15.2 SEER2, 7.2 HSPF2, and 10.6 EER2

  • Mini-Split System: 16 SEER2, 9 HSPF2, and 12 EER2

You can claim up to 30% of the cost of the job, subject to maximums.

To determine the right size generator for your house, you should calculate the total wattage of the appliances and devices you want to power during an outage. List all essential items, note their start-up wattages, and add them together.

Here are some typical wattage requirements for common appliances:

  • Refrigerator: 600 watts

  • Large dehumidifier: 700 watts

  • Large window air conditioner: 1,400 watts

  • Water heater: 3,000 to 4,500 watts

  • Electric furnace: 5,000 to 25,000 watts

A 7,500-watt generator might be sufficient for essentials like a refrigerator, freezer, well pump, and lighting circuits. However, for high-demand items like a water heater or furnace, a whole-home generator is a better choice. A portable generator may be enough if you only need to power a few critical items.

While home square footage can offer a rough estimate, it is not always a reliable indicator. For reference, here are some typical generator sizes based on square footage:

  • 1,000 sq ft: 6–9 kW

  • 1,500 sq ft: 7–10 kW

  • 2,000 sq ft: 10–14 kW

  • 2,500 sq ft: 12–16 kW

  • 3,000 sq ft: 16–20 kW+

For the most accurate sizing, consult a professional who can calculate your home's peak and average power consumption and recommend the optimal generator.

The Madison, SD homeowners’ guide to energy efficiency auditing services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.