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Lawn Irrigation questions, answered by experts

If it’s been a few weeks and you haven’t seen anything pop up, double-check your seed packet and make sure you didn’t miss any steps. Did they need cold stratification (putting seeds in the freezer and then transferring to water before planting)? Do they have an exceptionally long germination period? 

 If you’ve followed all of the directions closely, you may just have had a bad batch of seeds. (Sadly, it happens.)

The easiest way to rough up soil to accept grass seed and provide the best opportunity for its growth is to make several passes over the area with a garden tiller and rake away the loosened vegetation and debris. However, in some cases, very hard ground may require using a shovel or pick to break up pieces into smaller chunks that the tiller can handle more easily.

Properly secured bird netting is the best option to cover your grass seed with. It creates a minor moisture barrier that can help seeds sprout, and it’s a great way to keep birds away from your seeds. A cheaper, lower-maintenance option is hay or mulch, but these can change the look of your lawn and require cleanup in the case of straw.

If you throw grass seed on bare spots, some may sprout on the soil’s surface. However, the germination rate will diminish over time because the grass will not be rooted correctly. You may not get desired results if you toss grass seed on bare spots without proper lawn maintenance and cultivation.

Yes, but the best approach is to apply fertilizer well before you actually sprinkle the seeds. Apply fertilizer with an NPK ratio somewhere around 10-10-20, or 10-10-10, depending on soil test results and the type of grass you're planting, about six to eight weeks before planting grass seed. This mix added to loosened soil will give the grass seed its best chance of getting off to a solid start. 

The Colman, SD homeowners’ guide to lawn irrigation services

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