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Brick spalling—which refers to the crumbly, flaky, or pitted appearance that can develop over time—is caused by a few different conditions. These include:

• Climates with constant freeze-thaw cycles

• Use of non-breathable sealants

• High-pressure water cleaning

• Improper installation

While you can’t do anything about the weather, you can preserve your bricks by cleaning them with soapy water and a good old-fashioned scrubbing. Pressure washers may be satisfying to use, but they can eventually wear away the surface of your bricks. If you don’t have advanced-level DIY skills in masonry, you can hire a reputable masonry contractor in your area for your project.

To stain brick, you should use a product specifically formulated for brick, concrete, or other masonry surfaces. These stains are designed to penetrate the porous surface of the brick and bond with it. This is different from paint, which sits on the surface and is prone to peeling, flaking, and trapping moisture that can cause damage. Water-based brick stains are often recommended because they are easy to apply, even for DIYers, and they allow the brick to breathe. Avoid using regular paint on brick, as it will not adhere properly and can lead to future maintenance problems.

While painting can certainly change the look of a chimney, you should think twice about giving your brick chimney the old landlord special.

Painting brick is porous, meaning it’s full of tiny holes that can soak up moisture. Those holes also allow it to dry, though. So, when you paint it, you trap any moisture inside, providing an opportunity for mold, mildew, and water damage.

Paint also shows wear faster than naked brick. This means that once you paint a brick surface, you’ll have to keep painting it to maintain a clean look. A paint job is also harder to undo on brick because of its porous nature. Once you paint it, it’s hard to go back without some serious power washing—another added cost.

You will repoint over a fraction of the old mortar, but you should scrape away 1/2 to 1 inch of mortar from the joints before repointing. Otherwise, the repointing is only masking the weakened mortar instead of actually replacing it, which could put your chimney at risk of bigger, more expensive damages later on.