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The felling notch you make before you make the final cut will determine which way the tree will fall. The cut will be in a wedge or triangle, and the tree will fall from the highest point of the triangle. You can use this, as well as the process described above, to estimate where a tree will fall. 

Early signs that a tree is struggling include premature leaf shedding and lesions or other strange markings. Peeling bark, dead or rotten branches on the ground, and a conspicuous lack of leaves can all be signs that a tree has started to die. By the time a tree starts leaning, it’s usually too far gone to save.

You’ll have to balance up the cost, the value of the tree (sentimental or otherwise), and the risk factors. An experienced arborist will help you understand whether transplanting is likely to be successful. The cost and hassle of transplanting a large, well-established tree are often not worth it, especially if the species is fast-growing and easy to source. The decision depends on the age and species of the tree, the conditions in the new site location, and how careful the company is when digging out and moving the tree.

If you ever want to see the literal fruits of your labor, you’ll need to prune your peach trees. Without pruning, the trees may not grow or bear fruit since the nutrients will be divided among too many offshoots to provide any with enough energy to produce the peaches. Plus, if parts of the peach tree become diseased or pest-ridden, pruning can nip those problems in the bud.