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Staining or sealing a cedar deck or fence is highly recommended to extend its lifespan and protect it from the elements. While cedar is naturally resistant to mold and mildew, it is not impervious to damage from moisture, sun exposure, splintering, fading, and rot over time. Applying a protective finish creates a shield that preserves the wood's strength and appearance, potentially extending its life by five to 10 years.

When choosing a finish, it's helpful to understand the difference between a sealer and a stain. A sealer sits on top of the wood, whereas a combination stain and sealer soaks into the top layer. Because it penetrates the wood, a stain generally offers better protection against UV damage and rot and lasts significantly longer. For the best results that also preserve the wood's natural color, consider using a near-translucent stain.

To maintain protection, plan on reapplying the stain or sealer every two to three years, either as a DIY project or by hiring a professional.

Whether to brush or roll stain on wood depends on the project and your preference. Brushing is ideal for smaller, intricate areas and offers more control over the application, ensuring thorough coverage and penetration into the wood's grain. 

Conversely, rolling is efficient for more extensive, flat surfaces and can save time. However, it is not always the best fit for textured or uneven wood. Some projects may benefit from combining both methods, using a brush for detail work and a roller for broader areas. Ultimately, the choice between brushing and rolling depends on the specific requirements of your staining project.

Satin paint is generally considered a better choice for woodwork—including trim, baseboards, cabinets, and doors—than flatter finishes like eggshell or matte. Its soft sheen enhances architectural details and stands up well to frequent cleaning and daily wear. Compared to eggshell and matte finishes, satin is more durable for high-touch areas because it is less porous and doesn't absorb dirt as easily. Matte finishes, in particular, are prone to scuffs and are harder to clean, making them less practical for surfaces like doors and cabinets.

You don’t necessarily have to remove all the old paint before repainting your deck, but it’s best to remove as much as possible to ensure a smooth and long-lasting finish. Prioritize scraping off loose, peeling, or flaking paint, and sand down rough areas to create a smooth surface for the new paint to bond with.