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Don't pick up or dispose of aeration plugs. They will break down by themselves in one or two weeks. Rainfall will speed this up, as will watering the lawn. Mowing helps, but don't mow the grass too soon post-aeration. It's unusual that the plugs would remain after three or four weeks, but mowing and raking will break them down by that point.

Hydroseeding over an existing lawn is possible, but certain adjustments are necessary since the process is for bare soil. Hydroseed mix is ​​usually very thick, which helps protect the seeds during germination. If you have existing grass on your site and still want to hydroseed, it's better to use a finer mulch mixture when spraying. A finer mulch mix means the seeds can root into existing soil without suffocating the existing grass.

When you don’t aerate your lawn, the soil will become more compact over time. This limits how much water can soak in to reach the roots of your grass, and it keeps oxygen and carbon dioxide from the plant roots. This can limit grass growth, which may sound great for limiting mowing, but it also leads to a lawn full of grass that looks dull and sparse. Eventually, compacted soil can weaken grass, while also making it more vulnerable to pests, diseases, and erosion and even causing it to die off.

Raking only moves soil, leaves, and debris around on the surface. Aerating your lawn addresses compacted soil. Core aeration loosens up the soil, which makes it healthier and creates more verdant grass from the richer nutrients and stronger root systems that develop. Raking only provides short-term benefits, while aeration creates higher-quality soil and grass growth in the long term. Rake or dethatch before aerating for a bigger benefit to your lawn.