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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Three signs that you need crawl space insulation are drafts, high energy bills, and mold. Drafts can start in crawl spaces and cause hot or cold air to spread to the rest of your home through holes in the floors and walls. And even if your entire home is well-insulated, you can still feel an unchecked draft from your crawl space and in your utility bill. Uninsulated crawl spaces can let in air and moisture, and because they’re built directly on the ground and difficult to dry out, they are hotspots for mold and mildew.

Ideally, you can add new insulation to your existing insulation. However, some circumstances require you to remove old insulation before adding any new insulation: 

• If the insulation is over 15 years old

• If the insulation is wet or moldy

• If it is vermiculite insulation

• If you see signs of pest infestation

Removing old insulation is best left to a pro who can safely dispose of potential moldy or asbestos-ridden insulation.

Insulating an unheated garage can still be worth it. For instance, insulating an attached garage can help with heat loss from your house in general, and it can also make it easier to store electronics in your garage without worrying about them being exposed to extreme temperatures.

If you use your detached garage as a workspace, insulation can still make a difference. Plus, you can use space heaters and a window unit AC to help condition the space while you work without installing heating.