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Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.

Wood stain is typically dry to the touch within 6 to 12 hours, but it is not fully cured at this point. You should wait at least 24 hours before applying a second coat or a protective finish. For surfaces like decks, avoid walking on them for at least 24 to 48 hours, and wait even longer before placing furniture. The full curing process can take from 24 hours to one week, depending on the type of stain. Factors like high humidity and cold temperatures can extend drying and curing times, so it's wise to allow for extra time in these conditions.

If you paint a vinyl fence, it will likely stick to it for only a brief amount of time. This is because vinyl is not a porous material, so it's not an ideal surface for holding paint. Initially, paint will stick to your fence, but it will eventually peel off. Applying primer before painting your vinyl fence will help paint last longer. Certain primers are well-suited to vinyl, which means you can paint vinyl siding with the proper preparation.