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Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Limewash can be removed from brick, but the method of removal will depend on how long the limewash has been on the brick. If the limewash has fully dried—which happens after about five days—you’ll need to use a diluted muriatic acid mixture to remove it. If there are multiple coats of limewash, you may need to apply the acid mixture several times to fully remove it from the brick.

No, it’s not recommended to attach shutters to brick without drilling. Brick is dense and built to last, so adhesives and shortcut methods don’t usually cut it. Even heavy-duty glue struggles to hold up over time—especially against wind, moisture, and temperature changes. Most no-drill options are made for materials like vinyl or wood, not solid masonry. Skipping the drill might seem easier, but it puts your shutters—and anything below them—at risk. For a secure, lasting install, drilling is the way to go. It takes more effort up front, but the result is safer and more reliable.

You can use a regular drill to make pilot holes for gutter brackets in the wooden fascia board around the top of your house, but it’s not the best tool for brick. Instead, you’ll need a heavy-duty power tool like a hammer drill with a carbide tip bit.