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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

If you feel your energy bills are too high or your HVAC system is working harder than necessary to maintain the correct temperature in your home, you may have an under-insulated home. If you’re unsure, consider having your system’s efficiency assessed by a local independent energy auditor.

For your safety, you should always wear a mask when cutting batts of fiberglass insulation. We also recommend wearing eye protection, safety gloves, and long sleeves to protect your skin. Properly suiting up helps you avoid several fiberglass issues, such as cuts from the tiny shards of glass and inhaling small bits of fiberglass.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.