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Trees that flower in the spring—like dogwood, cherry, magnolia, and pear—should not be pruned during the winter. These spring-flowering plants grow buds on old growth, so you’ll actually remove what would’ve been gorgeous flowering foliage. Instead, wait to prune until right after they bloom, when the flowers fade.

In most cases, you should not use a pruning seal on trees after trimming. Applying a sealant can interfere with the tree's natural healing process, and it does not guarantee protection from pathogens. Instead of sealing the cut, the best practice is to support the tree's natural recovery by providing it with plenty of water and a dormant-style fertilizer. However, there are exceptions. Pruning seals may be recommended for very vulnerable species, like elm trees, in areas where dangerous diseases such as Dutch elm disease are prevalent. In these specific situations, the protection offered by a sealant can outweigh its downsides. For advice tailored to your situation, especially after cutting large branches, it is best to consult a local tree trimming professional.

Trees aren't big fans of moving, and they do go into shock during a transplant. Although most carefully thought-out tree transplants see the tree recover from the shock just fine, there is always a risk of having an unsuccessful move. Proper preparation, timing, and diligent aftercare are crucial to minimize the risks when transplanting a tree.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.