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We do not recommend fiberglass insulation for soundproofing purposes, especially if you are working on a room that’s part of your living space. Fiberglass insulation is dangerous, and the installation process is hazardous. It is also harmful to the environment. When there are so many newer, healthier non-fiberglass alternatives in the market, the lower cost of fiberglass insulation simply doesn’t justify the harm and danger it poses.

It’s best not to install a radiant barrier directly under insulation because it requires an air gap on at least one side to work properly. Instead, you should install the radiant barrier over your existing insulation to create an air space to reflect the radiant heat.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

The best type of attic insulation depends on where you live, your budget, and what stage of construction the attic is in. For example, if you're building a house, then structural insulated panels are a worthy investment since they're easy to install during construction and they're the most energy-efficient type of insulation.  

Additionally, if you live in a very warm climate, then you can potentially save quite a bit of money by opting for reflective insulation, which is more affordable than comprehensive insulation but doesn't work well for cool climates. Blown-in, loose-fill, and spray foam insulation are all great options for attics in moderate climates.