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According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), hazardous waste is generally classified into four main categories:

1. Characteristic Wastes: These exhibit at least one of four hazardous traits: ignitability (flammable, like gasoline), corrosivity (can rust or decompose materials, like car batteries), reactivity (unstable and can explode, like aerosol cans), or toxicity (harmful when ingested, like lead-based paint).

2. Listed Wastes: These are specific wastes from manufacturing and industrial processes that the EPA has officially designated as hazardous. They include byproducts from processes that use solvents, pesticides, and other chemicals.

3. Universal Wastes: These are commonly generated hazardous items that are subject to streamlined regulations. Examples include batteries, pesticides, mercury-containing equipment (e.g., bulbs), and some lamps.

4. Mixed Wastes: This category includes waste that contains both hazardous and radioactive components, making it subject to regulation by both the EPA and the Nuclear Regulatory Commission.

Lead toxicity comes from inhaling lead or consuming it. Before the 1980s, when the government banned lead from consumer use, it could be found in paint, plumbing, pipes, ceramics, and even gasoline. Lead paint is toxic for the same reason lead itself is toxic, which is why lead poisoning from paint presents the same as lead poisoning from water or food sources, with a slight increase in respiratory symptoms vs. digestive symptoms. Lead paint is most dangerous when it’s old and peeling, cracking, or otherwise disturbed. This increases the concentration in the air and, therefore, in breathable air. 

You should ask a few questions to ensure that your potential lead removal professional is experienced and qualified to handle lead-paint abatement safely, legally, and properly.

• What are your qualifications and experience removing lead-based paint?

• Are you licensed and certified to remove lead-based paint?

• How do you test for lead paint?

• What methods do you use for lead-based paint abatement?

• What do you plan to do with the hazardous material when you remove it from the home?

• Do you do replacement and painting work or removal only?

Chlorine has a shelf life of between six months and several years, depending on its type and formulation. Liquid chlorine can often lose its effectiveness in just a few weeks. Pool owners can find themselves with overstock that they need to get rid of. The best way to dispose of excess chlorine is to take it to a hazardous waste collection site and let the pros handle it.