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You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

The best time to cut down a tree is during its dormant season, typically in winter or early spring, after all the leaves have fallen. Removing a tree during this period is advantageous for several reasons. Frozen ground helps secure the tree stump, protects the surrounding landscape from damage, and reduces the risk of the tree falling in an unintended direction. With the leaves gone, there is less risk of the tree's foliage getting tangled with other trees. Additionally, since this is often a slower season for tree services, you may be able to hire a professional at a lower rate. This dormant period is also the best time for tree trimming.

Yes, the same rules discussed above apply to your neighbor: They can trim one of your trees as long as they’re only cutting the portion that extends into their property. Your neighbor is not allowed to access your property without permission, nor can they cut past the property line.