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To drain a broken toilet, place towels or plastic sheeting around the base in case of splashing or overflowing. Next, shut off the toilet’s water supply, usually via a valve on the wall behind the toilet. Begin flushing the handle to remove as much water as possible from the tank and the bowl. Don’t flush the toilet if it’s clogged, though. From there, use a large sponge to soak up any remaining water and wring it over a bucket. 

You generally cannot replace a 10-inch rough-in toilet with a 12-inch model without making significant plumbing updates. A 12-inch rough-in toilet will not fit a 10-inch rough-in space because the floor drain is in the wrong position. To accommodate the larger toilet, you would need to move the drainpipe, which could cost between $0.75 and $30 per linear foot, plus labor. In most cases, it is more cost-effective and simpler to purchase a new 10-inch rough-in toilet. However, it is possible to install a 10-inch rough-in toilet in a 12-inch space by using a longer connector.

The water in your toilet tank refills after each flush. So if you see dirty water in the bowl, you should check the tank to see if it’s coming from there. A dirty toilet tank can be the result of sediment in the water itself—-after all, the water will sit in the tank between flushes and can cause the interior to change into a dingy color. Faulty toilet components, like an old flapper, corroded tank lever or chain, or damaged seals, can also lead to dirty water as the materials break down inside the tank. You can clean the toilet tank or change out the old parts to give it a fresh start.

If you notice water leaking down the side of the bowl or tank and you don’t notice any cracks in the porcelain, the odds are that it’s condensation. If you notice water around the base of the toilet, this points to a leak. Check for loose bolts. A sewage odor may also indicate a broken toilet flange.