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The biggest sign that your flange leaks is if you notice water at the base of the toilet. The cause is likely due to a poor flange installation, so you might have issues with loose bolts, an uneven flange, or a cracked plastic flange. Add a deteriorating wax seal to this, and you have a recipe for disaster. The best solution is to shut off the water valve, replace the toilet flange, and seal it with a new wax ring.

Snaking a toilet is similar to clearing sinks and bathtubs, but there are unique circumstances where you’d have to drain, disassemble, and remove the toilet to fix the clog. For stubborn clogs in the toilet trap, a toilet auger—designed with a shorter cable and a protective plastic encasing—can navigate the tight bends and clear the clog without risking damage to the porcelain. 

Toilets typically connect to your main vent stack, a vertical pipe that runs through all finished levels of your home and exits through the roof. It’s located behind the walls, but if you have an unfinished basement or a utility closet, you may find a portion of it running the vertical length of the space. Some basement toilets use an air admittance valve instead, which is a small vent located in the wall directly behind the toilet that extends upward a few feet from the drain.

Yes, and no. Your shower, toilet, and sink all connect to the same main drain, but the secondary drains going from each fixture to the main drain are usually separate. This isn’t always the case—especially in older homes—but since toilets contain black water and showers, tubs, and sinks have grey water, toilets are more regulated and come at a greater risk of contamination. It’s best to keep these drains separate using individual waste collection for this reason.