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You should stain both sides of your fence to get the full benefits. Fences often fall along property lines, so you may want to save a buck by leaving your neighbor’s side in the dust. If you do that, all you get is a slightly better view. Moisture and UV rays can still sneak in through the side that’s unpainted or worn down and damage your fence. Rot and rust will spread, even if you can’t see it from your side of the lawn.

Rags used with oil-based stains are highly flammable and can spontaneously combust in the right conditions. To reduce the fire risk, throw them in a metal container after use and add rocks on top to secure them. Add an inch of water and seal the container. Take the rags in the container to a hazardous waste factory as soon as possible.

Yes, staining or sealing a cedar deck or fence is highly recommended to extend its lifespan, typically by five to 10 years. While cedar is naturally resistant to mold and mildew, it can still fall victim to moisture, sun exposure, and rot over time. Applying a treatment creates a protective shield that helps prevent splintering, fading, and decay, preserving the wood's strength and appearance. A combination stain and sealer often provides the best protection, as it soaks into the wood grain rather than just sitting on top. This offers superior defense against UV damage and rot and lasts longer than a sealer alone. To maintain the wood's natural look, consider using a near-translucent stain. You should plan to reapply the stain or sealer every two to three years.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.