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Electric water heaters do not need an attached vent, but the location of the water heater should allow for roughly 12 inches of clearance around it. This allows cool air to flow around the appliance and allows repair technicians to work on its components safely. The exact amount of clearance space required depends on your local building codes.

Water expands when heated and also when freezing. When water is heated, it expands by around 4%. For a full water heater, this is one of the main reasons malfunctions occur—the hot water has nowhere else to go but out. Due to the constant expansion and reduction in volume, it’s recommended (required in most places) that an expansion tank be installed.

Most hot water heater manufacturers recommend replacing the anode rod about once every three to five years. Anode rods sacrifice themselves by collecting iron, limestone, and other minerals that would otherwise corrode your hot water heater tank. This abuse wears them out long before your water heater does. Check the rod when you remove it and replace it if more than 50% of the metal has been consumed. Check the rod more frequently if you have hard water or use a water softener. 

It is very difficult and dangerous to install your own water heater, so we strongly recommend against tackling this as a DIY project. Not only will you need to wire your water heater, but you’ll also need to connect plumbing to the intake and outlet. Sweating copper pipes and connecting wiring properly are skills most DIYers don’t have, and even if you do feel confident you can do it, working with water and electricity always leaves the potential for electrocution. Hiring a local water heater installer is well worth the investment.