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Generally, it is not necessary to remove old mulch before applying a new layer. As organic mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with nutrients. However, you should remove the old layer if it shows signs of fungus or disease, which can be common in moist areas, or if the total depth is already too thick. Avoid letting the total mulch depth exceed 3 inches, as this can harm plant roots. If you do remove old, disease-free mulch, it can be added to a compost pile.

It’s unlikely your leaves are a hazard, especially if you get to them while they’re dry. However, a couple of rare risks exist. University studies suggest that decaying leaves can produce organochlorines, toxic pollutants similar to man-made PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyls), so avoid keeping them in an enclosed area.

Also, leaves and compost may cause the growth of fungi that can cause diseases like histoplasmosis and aspergillosis, as well as mold spores that are unhealthy for human lungs. Again, severe issues are rare, but those with compromised immune systems or allergies to mold should wear face masks when directly handling leaves.

If possible, you should prioritize pulling weeds up by hand. However, be sure not to use your bare hands, as many weeds are sharp or otherwise irritating when they come in contact with skin. Always don thick, protective gardening gloves to protect your hands when you pull up weeds.

Ultimately, pulling weeds vs. spraying them depends on what’s happening in your yard and your personal preferences. Manual weed removal doesn’t introduce any chemicals into your landscape, targets specific problematic plants, produces immediate results, can be free if you go the DIY route, and is inexpensive with a weed service if you only have a handful of weeds. On the other hand, spraying is often preferable for severe weed infestations and situations involving difficult-to-pull weeds because it treats multiple weeds at once, is usually more effective long-term, is less time-consuming, and costs less when done by a pro.