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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

The number of coats you need to apply when whitewashing a surface depends on how opaque you want the final product to be. If you're going for a transparent, barely there look, a single coat or two may suffice. For fuller coverage, you'll want to use multiple coats. Another option is to use a less diluted paint to get a thicker coverage. 

When applying multiple coats, wait four to six hours for each coat to dry. Not waiting long enough can result in streaks, peeling, and uneven color. Plus, it will be more difficult to discern where the second coat has already been applied.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Painting or staining protects fences from environmental damage, enhances durability, and improves curb appeal with a fresh, customized look.

The Lyons, MI homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.